The waistband decides.

Berlin - four skirts, four jackets, one winter

The waistband decides.

Four skirts cut on a natural waist and four jackets built to close over a sweater. Every elastic is channelled and stitched twice so it cannot twist, every placket is opened and closed twenty times before the sample is signed off.

Open the skirt rail
Waistbands worn through a working dayPlaid matched at the side seamJackets cut to close over a sweaterPressed twice before it is foldedWaistbands worn through a working dayPlaid matched at the side seamJackets cut to close over a sweaterPressed twice before it is folded

Two rails, one wardrobe

Skirts on the left, the jackets that go over them on the right. Each rail was worn, sat in and washed before a single measurement was written down.

COSIMA LEUZZI - how we check a garment

A skirt is judged after an hour at a desk, not on a hanger

A plaid skirt can look immaculate in a photograph and still ride up by lunchtime. So every waistband here is set into a channel wide enough to lie flat, then stitched through at two points so the elastic cannot roll in the wash. Linings are cut on the same grain as the shell and run two centimetres shorter, which is why nothing shows below the hem in daylight. Button plackets are opened and closed twenty times before a sample is approved, and a skirt that pulls at the seam is recut rather than photographed well and sold anyway.

How these eight were chosen
COSIMA LEUZZI - close-up detail

The close-up: button, facing, hem

A button on a wool jacket carries the whole silhouette, so it is sewn with a shank rather than flat and the facing behind it is interfaced to stop the cloth stretching at the holes. Pockets are bar-tacked at the corners, because a pocket that gapes after a month is the first thing a wearer notices. Hems are pressed twice: once with the lining inside, once after the layers are joined. None of this is visible from across a room, and all of it is the reason the rail is short.

See the jacket room

Before it goes into the parcel

01

Fitted on three bodies

Every sample is tried on three heights before the size chart is written, flat and again on a body.

02

Lined on the grain

Skirts are lined on the same grain as the shell and cut two centimetres short, so no lining shows at the hem.

03

30 days, rights intact

Unworn pieces can be returned within 30 days of delivery, and your statutory rights are never limited.